Archive for category Climbing Trip Reports

Some Cool Climbing Videos

Some cool climbing videos I’ve been watching lately:

Alex Honnold and other climbers climb spires in Africa (sick video)-

http://camp4collective.com/#/FILM/STORIES/1/videothumbs

Alex Honnold free soloing (no ropes or protection) in Yosemite on 60 minutes-

http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=7383158n

Sasha DiGiulian climbs the hardest route done by a woman (5.14d)-

http://vimeo.com/33306702

Short climbing film on indoor gym climbing (Sasha/including a 9 year old Japanese girl who does world class climbing)- 

http://youtu.be/Ml-rxMwcaf0

 

 

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Yosemite- Climbing TR

I met my friend in the north east area of Yosemite, in an area called ‘lee vining’. He has been climbing for almost 20 years now and had all of his gear with him. I’m (obviously) not nearly as experienced and was able to just follow/clean for him. I essentially had to drive through the entire park (which was hell, given how narrow the roads are) to meet him. It was a scenic drive all the way through though.

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So yeah, I met up with my friend and we ghetto camped that night.

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We drove a bit closer into the park the next morning and did Cathedral Peak, a 6 pitch 5.6 classic. Some pictures:

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One of the anchors for one of the pitches:

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So for those who don’t climb- we put in pieces (also called protection or cams and a billion other names) when doing trad(itional) climbing. Stupid example (this was not going to fit, just wanted to show you a piece up close)-

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The top:

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The next day we climbed inside the valley. We did Bishops Terrace (I think it was a classic 5.9) along with several others. I’m awful at crack climbing but still had a fantastic time. I don’t have many pictures from that day, but…

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The last day we went to an off-the-beaten-path climbing area called ‘Shuteye Ridge’. It was super hell to get to (the ground was super shitty, pretty much just driving through huge roots/forest the entire time…not the brightest idea when you don’t have a spare). That said, it was really great- super isolated, beautiful scenery, cool rock, easy walk off at the top. The only problem is that we didn’t really have a guidebook for it. We saw some bolts leading up a crack and met two other climbers who had a guide book. We deduced that it was a 5.8 3 pitches.

This was probably my favorite climb of the weekend. It was all stemming (where you shift your weight back and forth using footing and balance…think climbing up a chimney, back and forth) and layback moves (where you can hold both hands in a hold and lay back on it, working your feet and hands up). reminded me alot of gym climbing in a way and it was incredibly fun.

Some pictures of the area (none of the climb, unfortunately)-

Cool bouldering area before the actual climbing spot-

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The view from the area-

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very cool. I’d like to go again.

So that was my first 3 days of the trip. Unfortunately, my friend had the beginnings of strep throat and had to check out early. I decided that I wanted to do the Half Dome hike, a 15 mile round trip hike that had a very large amount of elevation change (I can’t recall what the total was, something like 5-6,000 feet if I recall). I’ll post that TR next.

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Climbing and Hiking in Colorado and Utah

Alright, here is the trip report (TR) of my week long hiking/climbing trip.

We left on Saturday  with the plan of heading to Moab. Most of our travel plans were pretty unstructured and we were planning on playing it by ear. There were three of us (me, Dave, and Josh). We are all sport climbers with little trad experience. We were borrowing my friend’s CRV and had a friend’s tent.

So we drove to Denver (8 hours) and ate lunch at sushi. It was pretty good and one of the last lunches we would enjoy for the rest of the trip.

Basic map of Colorado for reference:

We stopped for a short stint and climbed in Golden, a small town outside of Boulder. We climbed there for only a few hours, finding little success. The routes were tough and we were forced to ditch a beaner.

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First night was a bit of fail. We tried camping in Nederland, a small town outside of Boulder, only to find it closed for the season. We were forced to sleep in our car like hobos and it was quite uncomfortable.

Next day we climbed in Boulder Canyon for a short bit. I’m familiar with the area, having been there a few times. We had a tough time navigating through though and we climbed a 5.9. I actually was able to finish the route on lead, which was pretty cool.

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We drove through to Moab and realized that our tent poles were not there. So another night in the car. We pulled all of our stuff out of the back this time though and were able to lay down a bit better. It was still quite uncomfortable though.

Now that the trip had started, we stuck with a routine: Every morning we’d wake up around 7-8am. We’d usually travel into town (Moab or some small CO town) to eat breakfast/put contacts/brush teeth. We ate pretty heartily (Mcds or BK) because we wouldn’t eat any meaningful lunch. Lunch usually consisted of trail mix, jerky, granola and protein bars (and lots of water).

So the first day we decided to check out some climbing in Moab. Unfortunately we didn’t do a ton of research before we went. Though we suspected Moab was primarily long and traditional crack climbing, we were hoping to find some sport.

For those confused with this terminology, sport climbing = there are already bolts in the wall. So the only equipment you need are quick draws and some webbing (and a few other clips). Traditional climbing = there are no bolts in the rock and you place all of your own protection such as this:

So anyways, we went to this long crack and wanted to do the first pitch of it. Because we didn’t have any trad gear, we were forced to sling rocks for our protection. It was a bit sketchy due to the rock being sandstone but it worked out…sorta. We slung our way up a 5.8 and hoped to use the anchors for a 5.10. Turns out our rope wasn’t long enough and we wasted several hours. So a bit of fail there.

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So yeah, talk about fail for the first half of the day. Live and learn though, part of the experience. We went to another area (the name escapes me) for the next part. The scenery reminded me alot of Vedauwoo, WY, and it was pretty cool. The climbing there wasn’t the best (fairly slabby for the most part, meaning it was about balance and high stepping more so than big moves).

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So yeah…good finish. Unfortunately our tire popped on the way there and we had to change that out the next morning. We were planning on just hiking the next day, at Arches National Park. The scenery was obviously incredible and I’ll just post some of the pictures from there:

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The hiking overall was fantastic and I recommend it to anyone who enjoys that type of stuff. We did maybe 12 miles all in all.

The next day we drove all day back to Colorado. We were planning on checking out Rifle, a park that is home to some of the hardest climbs in Colorado. The weather sucked though and we weren’t able to go. We stopped in Colorado Springs, with the plan to climb in Shelf Road the next two nights. Shelf is home to many sport routes.

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Shelf was a great time. The rock was sharp and I cut myself, which sucked…but overall, very fun. I’ll definitely be going back someday.

So yeah, that’s it. I know people don’t really like reading long posts (I know I don’t). So yeah. Public link to some of the photos that might not have been posted here (on facebook)-

VIEW THE ALBUM HERE

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Climbing in Colorado

Some friends and I went climbing in Colorado for a few days. We started in Garden of the Gods, right out of CO. Springs, which would later result in major failure.

Each of our sites were either taken or shut down for the season (due to renovations). We were able to appreciate the sights and scenery and hiked throughout the park…but we weren’t really able to climb at all. The final nail in the coffin was when we tried scrambling up a 50+ foot ‘easy’ climb with our gear…my friend wore his sandals up the side, which resulted in him gassing out midway through. It was a fairly scary situation, because if he fell, he was fucked. We had no ropes out or anything.

Here is a picture of that idiocy-

We eventually put the pack on a small ledge and rappelled down. Here is an example via google-

So yeah…first day was a catastrophic failure.

We drove to Boulder Canyon, right outside of Boulder, CO, where we found success. I’m not really going to go too much into the details, as there really aren’t any…so here are pictures (I was not designated photographer this trip, so these are all hers)-

my first lead route-

found this crazy cave…we didn’t go too deep, due to not having any light.

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Cordoba/Rock Climbing/Los Gigantes

My first entry into Cordoba was a big bucket of fail. I had a difficult time figuring out how the bus station worked in Buenos Aires as the platforms and ticket pickups were all over the place. I had a bitch of a time falling asleep as well. When I finally did, I awoke to an empty bus, realizing that I slept past Cordoba and past my stop. Cursing madly, I got off at this ghetto stop and wasted two hours getting back.

Anyways, Cordoba is a nice city. It’s the second largest in Argentina and located in the central region. Here is a link to a wiki description of the city and here is a map for reference (should have done this earlier, oh well)-

I wanted to go rock climbing here as I read that is one of the many activities in this city. I woke up at 9 and went with a guide here (pesos$200, $50). The wall wasn’t very tall (20m). That said, there were still alot of various climbs offered.

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I idiotically wore shorts instead of jeans…I chose to get my legs cut up instead of sweat profusely (moron logic)-

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It was good fun all around. The last one was a 6A crack. On the way back I tried ‘maite’ (sp?), this weird tea-like drink that you scramble up/mix with hot water…wasn’t really a huge fan overall but meh, whatever.

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My original plan was to move on to Mendoza. I changed it and decided to go to ‘Los Gigantes’, this area outside of Cordoba which featured many hills/small mountains/caves.

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Sheep-

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Many cows roamed the fields-

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Here is a picture of a dead cow that has been dead for a year (more or less)-

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Saw a bunch of condors flying around, huge things-

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We saw our first cave here…it was extremely narrow and not very deep. We had to climb over large boulders to go up, eventually climbing up the other side.

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Bird rock, can’t recall the name of it-

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We got to the top of this large rock, I can’t recall its name…something ‘la cruz’ (cross). We had a great view and ate lunch up there.

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We climbed down and walked along the valley. We saw a dying cow who was mooing away, unable to move. It looked like it fell from the rock 20 feet above. It was obvious that the cow could not move and probably had a broken back. It was still alive and breathing though…nothing we could do-

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We entered another cave…this one was very narrow as well. The entire cave slanted downward at a weird angle-

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We entered our last cave, one that was much more open/wider than the others.

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Leaving tonight for Mendoza…will not put in my ear plugs and I better not sleep through my stop.

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