Archive for October, 2013

Arkansas 2013 (Horseshoe Canyon Ranch)

Sup guys, long time no post. I went to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (HCR) in Arkansas and it was a blast. We did 2 hard days of climbing and it was a very memorable trip. This is the exact same place I went to last year (TR is here) and I plan on returning to HCR for as long as I am able. The approaches are soft, the camping is cheap (and nice), the climbing is great, and the routes are plentiful.

So one thing that was slightly disappointing for this trip was that I severely injured my thumb about 1 month ago playing sand volleyball. I think it’s probably a very very bad sprain (or slight fracture) and it wasn’t really close to being healed for the trip. Due to the injury, I did not climb for the entire month (I pretty much just jogged for my workouts). I wasn’t going to let the thumb deter my climbing, though, and I was going to at least be a belayer if I could not climb this weekend.

We left on Friday afternoon and got there late at night. We stopped in Kansas City for some EXCELLENT BBQ (LC’s BBQ, really great stuff- See link here) and then got to Arkansas at night.

The day after, we climbed!

I found my finger to be fairly painful (clipping as well), but just decided that I would climb as hard as it would allow me and heal it later on.

First climb of the day, a 5.9-

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We got in a decent amount of routes. Most of the climbing is 35-60 feet of climbing.

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Here was my favorite climb of the weekend, a 5.11a roof problem. It was super overhung and very sporty (in the sense that the holds were all fairly solid and the moves were pretty big). Here is the route: LINK

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We climbed the route next to it, ‘Yo Momma’, which was easier-

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There were a few other climbs but they were fairly moderate/not too noteworthy. Day 1 was successful and we chilled out around 5pm and slept early. Unfortunately it got a bit cold at night (like 35 degrees) but we were fine.

Day two was really beautiful. It was perfect climbing conditions- like 70 degrees and not a cloud in the sky. We decided to go to the East part of the park and the approach was a bit longer (20 minutes) than the other side.

Here was the longest route in the entire park, a 90 footer called ‘Orange Crush’-

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We did some pretty solid climbs, generally staying in the mid 10s. I finished the day on a 70 foot 5.10c which was really fun.

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Here is the route log:

1. Lamb Chops 5.9 (Dave Lead) 2. Leonid 5.9+ (Amanda Lead) 3. Sonrisa Loca 5.10c (Bret Lead) 4. Older..Better..Stronger..Faster 5.11a (Dave Lead) 5. Yo Momma 5.10b (Bret Lead) 6. So Black it’s Purple 5.9+ (Amanda Lead) Day Two 7. Orange Crush 5.10a (Dave Lead 90 footer) 8. El Chupacabra 5.10b (Amanda Lead) 9. Caesar’s Tossed Salad 5.10c (Dave only climber 75 footer) 10. Sybarite 5.10a (Bret Lead)


All in all, great climbing all around. I had a fantastic time and am definitely going to try to go back there. I’m hoping that my finger will heal fairly soon and it’s frustrating not being able to climb. There is a climbing competition in November that I don’t think I’ll be able to compete in due to the finger not being healed. Oh well, it’ll be better eventually.

Thanks for reading.

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