Archive for November, 2012

UNO Climbing Competition

Hey guys, sorry about the lack of updates here. Life hasn’t been too eventful lately. I’ve been doing my standard staking stuff (which is going quite well). I had a chance to do my first real climbing competition this past Saturday at the University of Nebraska Omaha.

I did another climbing competition maybe 1.5 years ago at my regular gym. I wasn’t really very good back then and mainly did it for fun. While this past weekend was primarily for fun as well, I thought that I’d at least be able to do some of the advanced climbs unlike the first time.

So this competition was a top rope/bouldering competition. Climbing competitions vary in terms of structure and ratings. This competition was fairly standard (I think)- different climbs offered different point totals. The harder the climb, the higher the points offered. The officials took your 5 best scores and then added them up. If you fell, you had 25 points docked, with a 75 point max deduction for each climb. You could re climb it as many times as you want.

There were probably 60+ people at the competition. It was broken up into 3 groups: Recreational (5.8 and below ratings), Intermediate (5.8-5.10), and Advanced (5.11+, V4+). More can be read about climbing grades here:

Unfortunately most of the routes in the advanced group were bouldering problems. Confession: I have never done one full bouldering session before. Actually, I might have done one years ago when I was too scared to ask for a belay in another gym out of state…but nonetheless, I haven’t really done much bouldering at all. There WERE 3 top rope climbs in advanced, but all of them were probably hard 5.11s+.


I had a blast all around. I was only able to complete 3 of the advanced bouldering problems (which started at V4). I have no idea on the bouldering grades, but I was able to do some of the harder ones. I also fell at the top of a top rope climb, which was immensely frustrating (it was probably a 5.11cish).


There were maybe 10 people in advanced and I finished 4th. The top 3 were all quite good, 2 of them were from out of state and familiar with the competition scene. The 3rd place was my friend and climbing partner. The rest of those in the advanced group were much farther behind the rest of us.



Our gym did really well. We brought 6 climbers and we had 4 people place. In advanced, we got 3rd (I got 4th and didn’t place unfortunately). Both of our girls won 1st and 2nd in intermediate (there were no girl climbers in advanced). We also had one of our guys take 2nd in the intermediate (the guy who won intermediate actually used to work and climb at my current gym, he just left for personal reasons).

I was happy all around with the climbing. I learned a lot as well. Not placing was a bit disheartening, but I was comforted by the fact that a) I haven’t really ever bouldered before and b) this was my first true competition. I had a ton of fun and would definitely do another.

Now, would I ever really try to train for competitions? Probably not. Doing hang board and specific climbing exercises purely for competition training isn’t really too appealing to me. I enjoy climbing as is, and if I start doing some of that other stuff, it might take some of the fun out of it.

Our climbing group: