Archive for October, 2012

Arkansas Climbing 10/19/12

So I went to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch near Jasper, Arkansas last weekend. This place is known for its great sport climbing. We left on the afternoon of the 18th and climbed 19th-20th and left on the 21st. It’s about an 8 hour drive from Omaha and I highly recommend the place.

The weather was gorgeous all around (like 70 degrees and no humidity). The approaches were all relatively easy and the camping was easily accessible. It was only $5/night camping and $5/day climbing- very cheap.

Arkansas climbing is known for its massive overhanging walls and big roofs. It is very sporty and very similar to gym climbing in a way. There were no super tall walls as in Colorado or California, unfortunately.

Day 1:

We started at this crag called the ‘North 40’. We misread our guide book and started with a 5.10a and a 5.11b when we thought we were climbing a 5.6 and a 5.9, respectively.

Photobucket

Photobucket

I led the 5.10a and my friend led the 5.11. I just top roped the 5.11 after him- big mistake. On big overhanging roofs, top rope climbing is impossible when you get to the roof and need either a take (or you fall). I wish I would have led it.

Right next to the 5.11 was a 5.12 that I tried on top rope. The first part was very easy; maybe only like a 5.8-5.9. Once you got to the roof, however, it got damn hairy-

Big double undercling to an awful 3 finger pocket-

Photobucket

Photobucket

I fell and couldn’t do it. Oh well, doesn’t hurt to try!

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

We moved down and tried another 5.12 or hard 5.11 (I can’t recall). I couldn’t get the start, unfortunately. The start was one of the harder parts on the route (at least according to the guide book). My friend was able to get up half way before quitting. What’s nice about some of the more difficult climbs is that they had permanent clips/draws in the wall, so you did not have to worry about losing any gear if you couldn’t do it.

Photobucket

Photobucket

At the end of the day, we did a 5.9 arete.

Photobucket

Day 2:

We went to a crag called ‘Confederate Crack’. Along the way we walked by Prophecy Wall, a massive roof where Sharma first ascended a 5.14. We didn’t take any photos, unfortunately, but here are some google images:

prophecy

prophecy 2

Anyways, in Confederate Crack, we did some different climbs. I led a 5.9 that had a tough/awkward start with a sporty finish. We did a 5.10a after, which was led by my 15 year old friend.

Photobucket

My other friend led a 5.11c (but we all agree that it was not that…we must have misread the location or climb, because it was probably a mid 10 at the hardest). That being said, it was extremely fun regardless.

Photobucket

Me giving him advice on another climb. I was climbing an easy 10 on top rope and he was at a crux part on a 5.10d.

Photobucket

At the end of the day, we were super tired and decided to climb some easier routes. We did a 5.9+ classic at another area.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

All in all, a fantastic trip. I highly recommend Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and will probably try to go there again.

5 Comments

Sweet Climbing Film

I’ve probably already shared this, but this place looks awesome:

3 Comments

Poker Bonuses and Building a Bankroll

Hey guys, I’m doing some part time blogging at Shark4Life. I’ll be doing it once or twice a month.

Here is an article I wrote there:

http://shark4life.com/bonus-whoring/poker-bonuses-and-building-a-bankroll/

I’m also writing part time at a PLO site as well. Will have those articles up when they are published.

Staking still going well. I’m going to probably try a new way to sign up players in the near future, so I’ll update this blog if it is successful.

2 Comments